Guest blog from number 1 daughter which goes to prove two things: firstly,
that she is a much better writer than me, and secondly, that I may not be
having the best fun in the world but she certainly is! Love it!
After six weeks of cetacean stranding in the sun, rubbing well-oiled and rotund
bellies with Machiavellian glee whilst our brain cells dehydrated one by one, I
woke up by the pool one day and could not remember my name. It was time to
go.
(Our time in Phuket was not quite like this, more on this in the next blog).
Armed with a backpack and a rucksack (no points for figuring out who carried
(Our time in Phuket was not quite like this, more on this in the next blog).
Armed with a backpack and a rucksack (no points for figuring out who carried
what), we flew domestic with Air Asia from Phuket to Chiang Mai, taking all
aviation tips learnt during the Christmas break - resisting texting our families
"Goodbye forever" or asking for a plate with our nuts.
was Alex's virgin ride with a tuk-tuk which required him to pull roller-coaster
selfies and inspect the mechanics of our vehicle at length - largely in our mate
Tully's honour. Surprisingly, this was the smoothest and best behaved ride I
have taken on a tuk-tuk which leaves me feeling uneasy about our trip to India
in the coming months.
Bypassing the centre of town we arrived on the outskirts of Chiang Mai at the
Swiss-Lanna lodge - a wooden chalet building owned by yes, a Swedish-Thai
couple. Our room consisted of two single beds, at opposite ends of a long room
so we opted to communicate via buddy sign language developed during our
Open Water diving course in Phuket. Mature.
Hiring a hot pink motorbike and wearing matching helmets (there was no
alternative), we rode into the centre and lunched on enchiladas at the Cat Cafe,
which had no feline decor, no pets and the chicken tasted decidedly of, well
chicken. We then took a walk within the old walls of the city. It has been 7 years
since I last stepped foot in Chiang Mai (with the previous boyfriend) and it feels
larger and more modern than I remember. Whilst the green leafy streets (or
sois) remain narrow and guesthouses and bookshops nestle together, small
modern coffee shops and art galleries now pop up on each corner. Traffic has
become much more four-wheeled and I got turned away for a second time from
the largest Wat in the city - for wearing shorts. After a brief stop for some supper,
we retired to bed early - the room thankfully too dark for us to resume our
communication.
Saving much of Chiang Mai and its sights until our next visit, we got into a
minibus provided by 'Travel Hub' the next day which was jam packed with
Chinese tourists. They have an unfortunate reputation for being as loud as a
foghorn and this was only proven right for our eight hour trip to Chiang Kong
which rests on the Thai-Laos border. We stopped several times on this trip,
once at the 'Full-House Guesthouse' which sat precisely half-way between
Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the middle of nowhere. Here was an orange PVC
swimming pool and shocking pink bungalows, surrounded by farmers working on
paddy fields. Its name was somewhat inaccurate, given that we saw nobody else
excepting the tourists that decamped from the minibus to buy snacks before we
jumped back in to continue our journey.
where one could walk over the 'Bridge of Rebirth' up to the 'Gates of Heaven'
and a temple interior which has murals depicting the Terminator, Freddy Kruger,
Michael Jackson enflamed in orange amongst other devil faces. Other images
there were Harry Potter and Hello Kitty, which added to the whole confusion
somewhat.
The border crossing was thankfully relatively pain free and we were happy to see
The border crossing was thankfully relatively pain free and we were happy to see
the majority of tourists leave at this point, choosing to stay overnight in Chiang
Kong before crossing the border in the morning. The reason for this is that the
most popular route to Luang Prabang is a two day, one night slow boat, which we
agonised over doing and eventually rejected - in part due to a horror story in a
blog I found online. Once in Huay Xai in Laos, we climbed into a large VIP bus
shared by only six Lao passengers and travelled to Luang Nam Tha - our first
destination in Laos. Using a torch, I read my book whilst Alex muttered in Lao to
the karaoke television under his breath.
The road winded through the Luang Nam Ha NPA (national park) smoothly and
after four hours we arrived in dark in what looked like a deserted town. Only
eight degrees and wearing shorts and t-shirts, we huddled into the nearest
guesthouse and booked the last room available - the double VIP suite for
100,000 kip (around 9 pounds). We then took our starved selves into the only
open restaurant at this hour, a garish flashing fastfood diner and listened to,
bizarrely, Eiffel 65 "I'm blue, da ba di, da ba die" on repeat whilst munching on
noodles and pizza.
discovered in the morning - a sleepy town with one main street surrounded by
the mountainous forests of the national park. Mists swirl in the morning and
evening and rise to a blazing heat and blue skies at around noon. Ramshackle
corrugated iron garages sit next to cement block houses and wooden shacks
with thin strips of bamboo covering the exterior walls. We hired mountain bikes
and rode up the hills past a wat overlooking the town, nodding to orange-robed
monks and passing tiny villages and construction sites before reaching another
wat - and climbing 175 steps to the top. A narrow track to the left took us past
the airport strip and to the Boat Landing Guesthouse where we feasted on
Kaeng Sen Lon (soup) and a noodle dish Mee Haeng.
The afternoon found us on the tiniest and bumpiest of tracks I have had the
The afternoon found us on the tiniest and bumpiest of tracks I have had the
fortune to ride on, past acres of fields with huts on stalks provided for shade.
The few locals we passed stared unapologetically, but all with a smile and
the greeting "Sa Ba Dee" - hello. I caused a traffic jam by refusing adamantly
to ride over a precarious bridge crossing made of only nine thin rows of
bamboo and where gaps showed a rushing river below. This was only made
worse by two motorcycles following behind me making the bridge more
concave than convex. By the time we reached the sadly unremarkable Bam
Nam Dee waterfall, after over 30 kilometres of cycling, our buttocks were on
fire which could be observed by the wider strides we took for several days
gangs whom all - and I mean all - have dreadlocks and those disgusting baggy
pants with elephants on them. We steered clear of them by taking a kayaking
trip down the Nam Ha river the next day. Dining on a breakfast at our new
guesthouse - Zuela, scrambled egg with tomato and onion and the lightest hot
baguettes I have ever had the fortune to eat, we bundled up warm and walked
along the main street to "Jungle Eco-Tour Adventures", paying 280, 000 kip for
the day's experience.
Kong, our guide was like us - 29 years old, spoke pretty good English and bore
Kong, our guide was like us - 29 years old, spoke pretty good English and bore
no likeness to the famous primate. Around 5"3 tall, bundled up in a black puffa
jacket, football shorts and a Liverpool FC baseball cap, him and Alex could have
been brothers from another. He also has 9 siblings which apparently is
unremarkable.
We jumped into an open backed truck and went to the morning market where
We jumped into an open backed truck and went to the morning market where
Kong bought some dubious looking food that was mashed together in plastic
bags. He also bought sticky rice and oranges, so I knew I wouldn't starve.
Following this, we shivered our cacks off heading south past the airport strip to
a derelict looking guesthouse where a kayak, an inflatable kayak, helmets and
life jackets of a murky pooey brown/grey sick pallor were thrown in.
A few kilometres down and we vacated our handsome ride and bravely
shed our warmest clothing in the chill and stood by our inflatable kayak
whilst Kong gave us a 30 second instrumental talk on the use of paddles.
I gave up with my broken lifejacket and we both climbed into our kayaks.
As you remember, Alex and I are not the best of kayaking partners and
As you remember, Alex and I are not the best of kayaking partners and
we had a considerable number of rapids and rocks to avoid with all the
knowledge that Kong had imparted to us. The first part was relatively
peaceful but the inflatable left little wriggle room and freezing water was
splashing on bare legs leaving for hot bouts of temper and a consistent
bellicose repartee back and forth.
Luckily, five kilometres down the sun came out and we stopped at a Lancen
Luckily, five kilometres down the sun came out and we stopped at a Lancen
tribe village where we saw carpenters building wooden joints for a house, palm
being knitted together for the roof and a well provided by a German funded
water project. We also met the wife of the tribal chief who had ruled for over
twenty years - unusual as a new one was usually voted in every three.
Back in the kayak, we hit some steamy rapids where I did not steer the back
For dedicated birdwatcher and father, Sean O'Hara
Back in the kayak, we hit some steamy rapids where I did not steer the back
of the kayak to Alex's satisfaction and left him soaked with water and the boat
semi-submerged. It was glorious! Trees soared above us and Alex clicked away
with the camera, documenting kingfishers and other sights. As the river curved
around, we parked the kayaks on a sandy bank of stones whilst Kong climbed
up a banana tree and hacked down some leaves which would serve for plates
for our lunch. The dubious plastic bags were emptied onto the palm leaves
alongside some river seaweed (dried and bought at the market of course) and
sticky rice was dumped in front of us. I waited patiently for the chopsticks but
apparently the Lao eat with their fingers and so we dug in. The questionable
food in front of us turned out to be minced meat, some noodle vegetable
mixture and this creamy green vomit which tasted better than it looked. Drinking
water, eating satsumas in the sun - it was a gorgeous moment.
considered 'white-water' and Alex who has never done white-water rapids before
sniffed his nose at the hungry river and sharp pointed rocks whilst having a
complete paddy. At one point, we completely misangled the kayak and went
plunging into the banks ducking branches and plants before the river finally
subsided. Such an incident did not go corrected by Kong, rather he just waited
patiently as we pulled twigs out of our hair and we were left praying that we
would not make the same mistake.
The evening found us dining on BeerLao and more pizza (they seem to love their
The evening found us dining on BeerLao and more pizza (they seem to love their
pizza here) before jumping in another truck to the bus station outside of town and
climbing into a VIP bus with numerous Israeli (?) and Chinese tourists for the
overnight trip to Luang Prabang. This was the hairiest ride either of us have ever
taken in our lives, where the driver saw no cause to slow down for potholes or
avoid any narrow crevice as we descended down the mountains. Getting any
sleep, between the Israeli tourists playing musical chairs and the bus teetering
on every curve was nigh impossible but I managed to catch a few nods before
we all had a hair-raising moment with a jolt that left us suspended in mid-air for
several seconds. Alex spent the whole night after this, with his back ramrod poker
straight praying for our lives whilst I, hearing aids off, buried under my sarong and
tried to pretend the whole thing wasn't happening.
So at 4am in the middle of no where, knock-kneed, we climbed out of the bus and
So at 4am in the middle of no where, knock-kneed, we climbed out of the bus and
entered Luang Prabang by tuk-tuk. Every place was closed and an unearthly
silence greeted us as we walked down past closed guesthouses by the river
under street lights. At 5.30am, we peered round the open door of a bakery,
where the owner took pity on us and served us early with hot coffee and Pan Au
Chocolat. We cried big hot salty tears over our breakfast, incredibly luxuriant and
delicious whilst thanking the heavens that we were alive.
Next time, we may well have to choose the slowboat route. But all in the life of a
Next time, we may well have to choose the slowboat route. But all in the life of a
backpacker!
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